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Art Deco Square Ruby Three-Stone Gypsy Ring


Art Deco Square Ruby Three-Stone Gypsy Ring



DATE: Art Deco, c.1920

A cool and unusual three-stone gypsy ring set with square emerald cut rubies. The stones are lab-grown, and display strong hot pink undertones as they catch the light. It dates from the 1920s, crafted in 19k gold (yes, 19... fineness 800 parts per 1000) with Portuguese hallmarks to the outer band - Porto assay office.

"Lab-grown” means the stones are exactly the same mineral as naturally occurring ruby – corundum – but were created in a laboratory, which partially accounts for the spectacular colour and lack of internal inclusions. By the 1920s, the process of growing sapphires and rubies had been more-or-less perfected, meaning almost any shape, size, or colour could be “made to order”. Like the invention of paste gemstones 200 years earlier, lab-grown corundum could (and did) command higher prices than their naturally occurring counterparts. In part because they were still really expensive to make, and in part because, once again, they represented, through technology, man’s ability to replicate one of Nature’s most prized creations. It was all very Modern, so fitted in perfectly with the cultural and societal movements of the early 20th century.


Lab Grown Rubies


Width at head: 5.9mm

Width of band: 2.1mm




Portuguese hallamarks for 19k gold (800)


Very good, with strong antique patina. Can be polished if preferred 


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